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Valentino’s ‘Fireflies’ Shows Alessandro Michele’s Restraint at Paris Fashion Week

Michele presents a sober, Pasolini-inspired vision that trades spectacle for clarity.

Overview

  • Debuting on October 5 in Paris, the Spring/Summer 2026 collection titled Fireflies ran under strobing lights on a plain black set with minimal hair and makeup.
  • Inspiration centered on Pier Paolo Pasolini’s fireflies as small lights of hope, with show notes voiced by Pamela Anderson urging guests to “disarm the eyes and reawaken the gaze.”
  • Designs favored edited 1970s-inflected tailoring with bows, ruching, velvet, and sequins in bold color combinations, anchored by oversized earrings, butterfly necklaces, and flower brooches.
  • Reviews characterized the outing as more wearable and pared back than Michele’s earlier maximalist seasons, prioritizing cleaner lines over spectacle.
  • Michele said he is in a “very sober moment” focused on beauty and joy, and WWD noted the reduced staging could signal budget discipline under new CEO Riccardo Bellini; invitations included glow sticks.