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Valentino’s ‘Fireflies’ Marks a Calmer Turn for Alessandro Michele in Paris

Reviews highlight deliberate restraint with 1970s references under firefly imagery that refocused attention on wearability.

Overview

  • Alessandro Michele unveiled Valentino’s Spring 2026 collection, titled Fireflies, on October 5 at Paris Fashion Week.
  • Invitations came with glow sticks, and the runway ran on a plain black set with swirling, strobing lights meant to evoke fireflies.
  • A more edited approach emphasized 1970s shapes such as bows, ruching, velvet skirts, pinstripe suiting, and draped day-to-night pieces.
  • The lineup ranged from elevated basics to opulent eveningwear, punctuated by oversized floral brooches, butterfly necklaces, and long chandelier earrings.
  • Some critics said murky lighting and undone hair diminished certain looks, while others read the restraint as possible cost discipline under CEO Riccardo Bellini; Michele cited a Pasolini letter as inspiration and used a Pamela Anderson voiceover for the show notes.