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Vaccarello Marks 30th Saint Laurent Show With ’80s Power and Floral Spectacle in Paris

Show notes cast the collection as a language of resistance that reasserts the house’s identity through archival cues.

Overview

  • The runway unfurled on a vast French garden set near the Eiffel Tower, with thousands of white hydrangeas spelling YSL and hedges trimmed into a giant Cassandre logo.
  • Silhouettes pushed exaggerated ’80s proportions with linebacker shoulders and giant bows, contrasted by tough black leather and sheer nylon trench coats.
  • Evening gowns came in ruffled, puffed, floor-sweeping shapes cut from nylon, a material choice designed to pack down like a windbreaker.
  • Anthony Vaccarello described the presentation as his 30th for the house and said his goal was to be “as YSL as possible,” consolidating a clear brand signature.
  • References ranged from Mapplethorpe leather imagery and Robert Palmer-style polish to YSL’s 1971 Proust ball costumes and the film La Reine Margot, underscoring an archive-driven narrative.