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Simone Bellotti Reorients Jil Sander With a Minimalist Debut in Milan

The reception emphasized a return to founder-era purism under OTB’s product-led reset.

A model wears a creation part of the Jil Sander women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 24, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Jil Sander women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 24, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Jil Sander women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 24, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Jil Sander women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 24, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Overview

  • Bellotti presented a coed Spring 2026 show inside the brand’s bright headquarters overlooking Castello Sforzesco.
  • Disciplined tailoring featured compact fits and precise openings, including diagonal cutaways, portholes over bras, slashed waistbands and geometric protrusions.
  • Reviewers praised the clarity, craftsmanship and accessories, while WWD called the outing assured yet underwhelming rather than a reinvention.
  • The concept juxtaposed classicism and modernity from the setting, with hidden cinching, origami-like folds and crisp knits shaping light, structured silhouettes.
  • Bellotti arrives after four seasons at Bally and 16 years at Gucci, aligning with Renzo Rosso’s push to refocus Jil Sander on tangible, sellable product.