Overview
- Anthony Vaccarello presented the collection at the Bourse de Commerce during Paris Fashion Week, working from a disciplined, mostly black palette with subtle shifts into navy, gray and brown.
- A slender, vertical line dominated, with sharp shoulders, suppressed waists and full-legged trousers, alongside “broken” suit pairings that mixed colors, textures and pinstripes.
- James Baldwin’s Giovanni’s Room framed the concepts of dressing and undressing, using reveal-and-conceal styling to probe masculinity, fragility and desire.
- Erotic tension surfaced in precise juxtapositions, including banker stripes with boxers and latex leggings or boots, plus cravats, scoop-neck knits and faux-fur stoles.
- Vaccarello said he invited the buyer of Giovanni’s Room film rights to the show, noted he oversees Saint Laurent’s film arm, and clarified he is not making the movie though he has considered costume design.