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Prices Climb at Germany's Christmas Markets as €10 Fish Roll Goes Viral

A €10 Backfisch in Cologne has become shorthand for broader cost pressures on vendors.

Overview

  • Social media outrage over a €10 fish roll in Cologne captured wider frustration about higher food and drink prices at markets this season.
  • Trade figures cite steep cost drivers, including energy expenses up by more than 45% in five years, according to the Deutscher Schaustellerbund.
  • Security requirements have surged since past attacks, with reported cost increases of about 160% in Munich, more than 300% in Frankfurt, and over 200% in Gießen.
  • Stand fees can run to roughly €10,000 for standard stalls, about €15,000 for food vendors, and up to €20,000 for beverage concessions.
  • Local responses vary, as Cologne operators reported holding fees steady through freezes and multi‑year contracts, while markets like Duisburg saw modest menu hikes such as a €0.50 increase on bratwurst tied to higher wholesale and roll prices and some vendors reported weaker food sales.