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Prada Teams With Kolhapur Artisans as Punjabi Jutti Dispute Extends Appropriation Row

Digital protests forced Prada into artisan partnerships that will yield a GI-compliant collection

Louis Vuitton is among the luxury houses that have opened flagship stores across India in the last three years. Pictured is its boutique in New Delhi.
Gucci made headlines for showing a “Indy Full Turban,” which closely resembled the style of turbans worn by millions of Sikhs around the world, at a runway show.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee, who has dressed famous women including Kim Kardashian, made history last year as the first Indian designer to walk the Met Gala red carpet.
Zendaya wore a hand-embroidered sari gown by Rahul Mishra at a high-profile event in Mumbai that same year.

Overview

  • Prada’s collaboration with Kolhapur artisans marks its first effort to co-develop a sandal line that honours 2019 GI status and shares benefits with local makers.
  • A Bombay High Court public interest litigation was dismissed after petitioners failed to prove GI proprietorship or consumer confusion under India’s Geographical Indications Act.
  • Legal experts warn that enforcement gaps in India’s GI regime allow luxury houses to imitate protected designs without using GI names or misleading consumers.
  • Netizens and fashion commentators have identified Prada’s new antiqued leather pumps as resembling Punjabi jutti, extending the debate over uncredited appropriation.
  • The sandals controversy has already boosted sales of authentic Kolhapuri chappals and intensified calls for stronger IP rules and transparent brand–artisan partnerships.