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Prada Sets a Freedom-First Tone in Milan as Fendi Goes Vivid and Jil Sander Refines Minimalism

Milan's transitional season spotlights adaptability, craft, clarity as houses balance minimalism with exuberant color plus accessory focus.

Overview

  • Prada’s womenswear show at Fondazione Prada’s Deposito unfolded on a bright orange OMA-configured floor, with Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presenting a uniform-recomposed wardrobe built for freedom, interchangeability and wear-now ease.
  • Design details reinforced the “toolbox” idea: multi-panel skirts, suspended pinafores, unstructured bralettes, car coats and bright opera gloves styled with coveralls, with the designers framing juxtaposition as an act of creation.
  • Silvia Venturini Fendi’s first full season as sole creative director delivered a youthful, color-drenched collection that fused sporty pieces with couture-level craft, from perforated leathers to floral cut-outs and a fur coat built from joined florets.
  • Fendi’s runway doubled as a visibility play, with Paloma Elsesser, Alex Consani and Amelia Gray on the catwalk, playful twists on Peekaboo bags, and front-row draw from names including Hilary Duff and Shailene Woodley.
  • Simone Bellotti’s co-ed debut at Jil Sander returned the house to purist rigor and “apparent simplicity,” underscoring a week defined by minimalism-versus-maximalism contrasts as Milan sets the stage for consequential shows in Paris.