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Paris Fashion Week Closes With Heritage-Minded Debuts and a Ready-to-Wear Pivot

Reviews credit the new leaders with respectful reinvention focused on sellable ready-to-wear.

Overview

  • A wave of first outings at major houses—Jonathan Anderson at Dior womenswear, Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga, Michael Rider at Celine, Glenn Martens’ inaugural ready-to-wear at Margiela, plus new principals at Loewe—set the tone.
  • Piccioli rethought classic Balenciaga codes, riffing on the 1957 sack dress with new volumes and constructions, in a show that drew a celebrity front row including Meghan Markle.
  • Anderson’s Dior referenced house icons from the Bar jacket to the New Look, delivering a couture-inflected 74-look collection that emphasized modern wearability.
  • Martens’ Margiela balanced oddball stagecraft—child musicians and label-evoking mouthpieces—with pared-back, sellable tailoring, denim and slips.
  • Stella McCartney introduced plant-based “fevvers” as a cruelty-free alternative to feathers, underscoring the season’s sustainability experiments.