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London Fashion Week Reboots Under New BFC Chief With Bigger Crowds, Buzzy Debuts

Fee waivers alongside a beefed-up guest programme are drawing heavyweight buyers and press back to the city.

Overview

  • High-energy opening night featured eBay’s Endless Runway at 180 The Strand, Harris Reed’s 10th show The Aviary, and an H&M part-runway, part-concert with a star-studded cast and a performance by Lola Young.
  • The British Fashion Council doubled investment in its International Guest Programme and introduced minimum attendance and bespoke coverage commitments, with top global retailers and editors back in London.
  • Laura Weir’s first season at the helm includes waived participation fees, increased scholarship funding and a three-year NewGen commitment to ease costs and support emerging talent.
  • The schedule blends heritage names with fresh arrivals, including first-time London appearances by Nanushka and Anamika Khanna’s AK|OK, runway debuts such as Oscar Ouyang in the NewGen space, and a JW Anderson return via a scaled-down dinner.
  • Burberry is slated to close the week on Monday, a showcase framed by industry coverage as a key moment in the brand’s ongoing turnaround under CEO Joshua Schulman.