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Jonathan Anderson’s Dior Womenswear Debut Recasts House Codes in a Theatrical Paris Showcase

Anderson, the first to lead men’s, women’s and couture since Christian Dior, calls the project a “decode and recode” of the archive.

Overview

  • Staged in the Tuileries with a looming inverted pyramid, the show opened on an Adam Curtis film that spliced Dior’s archives with horror‑tinged clips to set a dialogue with history.
  • Signature codes were bent rather than broken, with shrunken or skewed Bar jackets, micro minis, sweeping capes, oversized bows, and sculptural hats evoking buccaneer and cornette shapes.
  • Accessories signaled commercial intent, including a new Cigale bag, logoed pumps with C and D toes, bow slingbacks, loafers with gilt hardware, and slouchy suede handbags.
  • The star-packed audience — including Jennifer Lawrence, Johnny Depp, Jisoo, Jimin, Jenna Ortega, Greta Lee and Mikey Madison — delivered a standing ovation after the runway.
  • Early reviews praised craft and ambition yet described a fragmentary collection without a single defining silhouette, as the industry watches this consolidated leadership in a season of high-profile debuts and a cooling luxury market.