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Jason Momoa Recounts 2007 Maui Surf Ordeal That Ended His Smoking Habit

He shared the perilous episode on the Smartless podcast during promotion of his Apple TV+ series Chief of War.

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Overview

  • Momoa revealed it was his first full public account of the 2007 incident, which occurred three months after his daughter Lola Iolani’s birth.
  • He recalled paddling 13 miles with Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama before his surfboard leash snapped almost a mile offshore at Peʻahi (Jaws).
  • Battered by 10-foot Hawaiian waves, he gave up until his foot found the outer reef, allowing him to cling for about 10 minutes under relentless surf.
  • Hamilton’s timely rescue led to a grueling paddle back to shore, during which Momoa’s feet were cut and bleeding from coral and exhaustion.
  • The near-death experience prompted him to quit smoking two to three packs of cigarettes a day, a habit he has not resumed.