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Iris Van Herpen Unveils Living Algae Couture at Paris Couture Week

The collection combines a glowing algae gown housed under bespoke conditions with recyclable lab-grown bio-protein wedding gowns.

A model wears a creation as part of the Iris van Herpen Fall-Winter 2025/26 Haute Couture collection presented Monday, July 7, 2025, in Paris. (AP Photo/Tom Nicholson)
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A model wears a creation as part of the Iris van Herpen Fall-Winter 2025/26 Haute Couture collection presented Monday, July 7, 2025, in Paris. (AP Photo/Tom Nicholson)
A model wears a creation as part of the Iris van Herpen Fall-Winter 2025/26 Haute Couture collection presented Monday, July 7, 2025, in Paris. (AP Photo/Tom Nicholson)

Overview

  • Van Herpen debuted Sympoiesis on July 6, presenting garments that merge couture craftsmanship with living organisms.
  • The centerpiece gown embeds 125 million Pyrocystis lunula algae in a seaweed nutrient gel and is stored under precise light, temperature and humidity to boost its blue bioluminescence over time.
  • A 35-step fabrication process, developed with the University of Amsterdam and the Francis Crick Institute, reflects an interdisciplinary approach to sustainable material innovation.
  • Alongside the living dress, the show introduced wedding gowns spun from lab-grown bio-protein fibers that are fully biodegradable and endlessly recyclable.
  • Operating like an alchemic laboratory in Amsterdam, Van Herpen’s atelier continues to push couture beyond traditional textiles by integrating biophilic design and scientific research.