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Iris Van Herpen Debuts Bioluminescent 'Living Dress' at Paris Couture Week

The algae-powered couture gown is now housed in simulated ocean conditions to assess its viability for future sustainable fashion innovations.

A model wears a creation as part of the Iris van Herpen Fall-Winter 2025/26 Haute Couture collection presented Monday, July 7, 2025, in Paris. (AP Photo/Tom Nicholson)
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A model wears a creation as part of the Iris van Herpen Fall-Winter 2025/26 Haute Couture collection presented Monday, July 7, 2025, in Paris. (AP Photo/Tom Nicholson)
A model wears a creation as part of the Iris van Herpen Fall-Winter 2025/26 Haute Couture collection presented Monday, July 7, 2025, in Paris. (AP Photo/Tom Nicholson)

Overview

  • At the Sympoiesis show, Van Herpen unveiled a gown animated by 125 million living Pyrocystis lunula algae that glow in response to movement.
  • The project was executed over four months through a 35-step biofabrication process in collaboration with biodesigner Chris Bellamy, the University of Amsterdam and the Francis Crick Institute.
  • Algae are suspended in a custom seaweed-based nutrient gel and encapsulated in a breathable membrane that sustains microbial health and dynamic bioluminescence.
  • Following the runway debut, the dress has been preserved under strictly controlled temperature, light and humidity settings that mimic its native seawater habitat.
  • Preliminary trials show dress samples remain viable for more than a year as the team explores long-term applications for living materials in couture.