Overview

• The show took place July 9 in the subterranean basement at Le Centquatre-Paris, featuring decaying paper-collage interiors that suggested six palatial environments
• Models wore sculptural masks that directly referenced Margiela’s inaugural 1989 Artisanal collection and reinforced the house’s motif of anonymity
• The collection juxtaposed molten metallic organza gowns and richly embellished couture with thrifted fabrics sourced from Guérissol to uphold the brand’s found-object ethos
• Industry figures such as Carine Roitfeld praised the debut for its emotional intensity and signaled a renewed enthusiasm for couture
• As the third creative director after Martin Margiela and John Galliano, Martens drew on medieval Flemish architecture, Renaissance motifs and archival prints to shape his first Artisanal line