Overview

• On July 9 at Le Centquatre-Paris, Martens unveiled his inaugural Artisanal couture show for Maison Margiela, the house’s first since spring 2024.
• The invitation featured a vintage spoon unearthed from floral paper, presaging a collection steeped in antiquity and decay.
• Runway masks echoing Margiela’s spring 1989 presentation paid homage to the founder’s deconstructive anonymity.
• The set’s layered, peeling wallpapers and papier-mâché walls underscored themes of fragmentation and renewal.
• Critics lauded the fusion of raw, ruinous imagery with meticulous couture craftsmanship as a promising new era for the brand.