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Dario Vitale’s Versace Debut Revives Gianni-Era Eroticism in Intimate Milan Showcase

The first non-family designer mines Gianni Versace’s archive, with the label’s sale to Prada Group still pending.

Overview

  • Versace presented the Spring 2026 collection at Milan’s Pinacoteca Ambrosiana in a small, two‑floor setup staged like a lived‑in home with unmade beds and personal props.
  • The clothes reworked 1980s–90s sexual codes into everyday pieces, favoring jeans, T‑shirts, sweaters and jackets over red‑carpet gowns.
  • Looks included high‑waisted tight denim, side‑cut tanks and low‑back dresses, reflecting Vitale’s aim to make sexiness feel experiential rather than explicit.
  • Donatella Versace, now chief brand ambassador, did not attend; Vitale took over April 1 after leading ready‑to‑wear at Miu Miu.
  • Reaction from editors and experts was divided, while an international guest list drew fan throngs outside, and the Prada Group deal is reported to be on track to close by year‑end.