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Dario Vitale’s First Versace Collection Revives the House’s Erotic Codes at Intimate Milan Showcase

The Prada Group’s pending purchase frames the debut by the house’s first nonfamily creative chief.

Overview

  • Vitale unveiled his debut during Milan Fashion Week inside the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, using two floors of the 17th‑century palazzo for a presentation limited to fewer than 200 guests with large crowds gathered outside.
  • The collection leaned into 1980s–1990s Versace sensuality with tight high‑waisted jeans, open‑sided T‑shirts, dresses left open in the back and bursts of primary color set to George Michael, Prince and Eurythmics.
  • Staging fused Renaissance art with decadent domestic vignettes including an unmade bed, a slip‑dress on a glass lamp and a glowing computer solitaire screen to channel Gianni Versace’s sacred‑meets‑profane aesthetic.
  • Donatella Versace, now chief brand ambassador, did not attend, while VIP turnout and fan interest were high, with appearances from figures such as Romeo Beckham, Lily McInerny, Hyunjin and the AllDay Project.
  • Vitale, formerly at Miu Miu, described sexuality as an experiential idea focused on smell and tactility, and industry coverage noted both the Prada Group tie‑in and the challenge of translating his vision for the brand’s clients.