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Anchor Failure in North Cascades Claims Lives of Three Climbers, Survivor Hospitalized

A Renton-based climbing group suffered a 400-foot fall during a descent near North Early Winters Spire; investigators are examining the cause of the anchor failure.

Okanogan County Sheriff’s Office personnel and search volunteers responded to a climbing accident in the area of North Early Winters Spire.
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A general view of Lake Ann, Corteo Peak and Black Peak from Lake Ann - Maple Pass - Heather Pass Loop Trail, Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, Cascade Mountains, Washington.

Overview

  • Three climbers, aged 36, 47, and 63, died while rappelling down a steep gully near North Early Winters Spire in Washington's North Cascades on May 11.
  • The sole survivor, who sustained internal bleeding and a traumatic brain injury, self-extricated, hiked to his car, and drove to a payphone to call for help.
  • Authorities believe the accident was caused by an anchor failure, potentially involving an old, weathered piton; investigators are working to confirm whether the anchor was pre-existing or part of the climbers' gear.
  • The Snohomish County Helicopter Rescue Team assisted in recovering the bodies from the challenging terrain, and the survivor is receiving treatment at Harborview Medical Center in Seattle.
  • The incident underscores the risks of technical climbs in remote areas and highlights the importance of redundant and reliable anchor systems.