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Alessandro Michele Debuts Valentino’s ‘Fireflies’ at Paris Fashion Week With Sharper, Wearable Turn

The presentation reflected a more edited vision rooted in Pasolini’s meditation on light.

Overview

  • The Oct. 5 runway in Paris used strobing lights to evoke fireflies, with show notes delivered via a Pamela Anderson voiceover.
  • Critics described a quieter recalibration toward clean lines and sharp tailoring, producing clothes praised for wearability over spectacle.
  • References to the 1970s surfaced in bows, ruching, velvet skirts, polka dots, pinstripes, and saturated color pairings like mustard with purple.
  • The lineup spanned tweed pants, V-neck knits, windbreakers, and single-breasted blazers to sequined jackets, beaded gowns, and oversized jewelry.
  • Michele framed the collection through Pasolini’s firefly metaphor and a sober mood, while a plain set kept focus on the clothes and drew a celebrity crowd including Lana Del Rey and Emma Chamberlain.