Overview

• The show unfolded at the old Cartier Foundation building on an LED floor beneath a mirrored ceiling that relayed closeups of the models.
• Pieter Mulier framed the season as reduced and precise, emphasizing tension between covering and revealing, genders, and excess versus restraint, with a goal of making “clothes that cry.”
• Experimental silhouettes included fringe leg coverings mistaken for trousers, open-back playsuits with bloomers, cocooned jumpsuits, and side-split pants tied at the ankle.
• The collection relied on only four materials—cotton, python, leather, and silk—using texture such as tassels, fringe, and pleating for embellishment.
• Mulier said he used Azzedine Alaïa’s original patterns for the grand ball gowns, and guests included Cynthia Erivo, Gwendoline Christie, and Kim Kardashian.